Nicks Mini Reef 160 - Salt Virgin (ULM Triton)

[Nickalls]

Introduction:

Hi Guys,

I'm new to reefing, moving over from a high tech planted tank, an I have to say.. this is like an alien world to me, so much to learn! I'm in the process of setting up a Mini Reef 160 an shopping for tech, which is my favorite part



Here's an overview of my setup and what I'm looking to accomplish

System Objectives:

The goal of this build will be ULM, running a fuge, bare bottom, and the Triton Method. The setup will be automated where possible, on a budget (So no Apex controllers :p)

Display System: Aqua One Mini Reef 160
System Type: Mixed Reef
Strike up Date: TBA
Display Tank: 160l Low Iron White Glass (156.03l Actual)
Substrate: Bare Bottom Textured ABS
Display Lighting: x2 Aqua Illumination Prime HD
Stand: 90x45x80 Melamine / Laminated
Hood: Open Top
Sump: 51.35l working volume, + 21l ATO reserve
Total Volume: 207.38l
Refugium: 39.86l
Refugium Lighting: Viparspectra 300w grow light

Support systems:
(Hope my partner never sees this list!)
System Water: Natural salt water
Display Water circulation: Jebao CP-40 Cross Flow pump
Return Pump: Jebao DCP-6500 Return Pump
Plumbing: Holman 25mm 2 port manifold / x2 "1 PVC gates
Flow Monitoring: FAILED K24 1" flow meter
Skimmer: Coral Box Skimmer D300 plus
Media: Continuum Exxodus BAC Brick
Evaporation Top Up: Ripple Aqua Auto top-up
Heating: Aquael AQN Platinum Heater 300W
Cooling: Aqua One Chiller Arctic L1/6hp 800-2200 L/hr 7-8 degrees B/A up to 300L
Monitoring: Seneye Reef / 4G SMS Monitoring / Grid Connect Alerts
Power Protection: Arlec RCD / Belkin BSV603 Surge Protection Strip / Emerson 300w Backup UPS
Power Control: x3 Arlec Grid Connect WiFi smart power boards

Chemical Support:
Supplements:Triton Core 7 https://www.triton-reagents.de/en/products/corechem/core7/
Dosing: Auto - Jebao DP-4 dosing pump


Cheers,
Nick

[Nickalls]

Seriously can't believe I'm this deep without any water in the tank! So far I've kinda test fitted some of the larger components to see how much space I have to work with. Electrical in progress, space is limited but where there's a will there's a way.





Next Up, Electrical

[Nickalls]

Electrical day!

Hi All,
Last night I got in some time with the tank and completed the wiring. Have to say that I had delusions of grandeur at the start of this project, visualising an awesome mounting board with super neat wiring but just don’t have the space for it inside the cabinet, or on either side of the tank.

Wiring goals:

• Hidden wiring / clean look
• Easy Maintenance
• Backup power for flow
• Keep most of the sump area free from cabling
• Minimise possible corrosion points
• Easily access controllers
• Easily access on/off switches
• Timers for devices
• Some splash proofing
• Surge and RCD protection

To achieve these goals, there is nowhere to put the cabling other than the back of the cabinet. This presents an accessibility issue when the tank is against the wall and full of water, I can’t get my hands in there to turn things off. Enter the Arlec Grid Connect Powerboard





These powerboards have the ability to perform remote switching, scheduling, and automation rules via the Grid Connect app. For this build, I’ll be using the apps ability to create automation rules (more on that in future), and scheduling for things like the fuge light.
X2 of these Grid Connect power boards are now mounted at the back of the cabinet, along with the Belkin surge protector, and all the power packs. The wave maker is connected to the battery backup UPS, and the wave maker and return pump are connected to a standard power outlet so I don’t have to worry about automation failing me.

There was just enough space to mount the control panels inside the right door, which (hopefully) is far enough away from potential salt spray.


Dosing pump has been installed on a nice Perspex shelf up in the top right corner


And my favourite bit, x2 new AI Prime HDs


Next up, plumbing

[Nickalls]

Hi All,

Bit more completed over the past couple of days, but first I wanted to touch on some of mods on the 160 and why I've done them.

I picked up the Mini Reef 160 second hand for around $400, 8 months old which had quite bad water damage to the cabinet. I'll cover how it happened and what to look out for, hopefully this post will save someone else out there some heartache.

The original cabinet was white, construction is a combination of laminated MDF and melamine which has expanded and split from water ingress in the back left corner. This is where the durso overflow exits into the sump from the display. Air carried into the sump from the durso overflow rises to the waters surface then pops, spraying the walls of the cabinet, flowing down the walls, and pooling on the ground. This wouldn't have been a huge issue if the tank was off the ground, but the cabinets feet only measure about 4.2mm high. Water is then absorbed by the left hand panel. There is no adjustment from factory for this system (valves etc), and the issue (without modification) might be unavoidable.

If you're looking at one of these systems second hand, take a look in the back left corner of the sump area for tell-tail signs of water stains, and expansion of the cabinet panels. Assess any damage and decide if the price is worth it. The good news is the issues are easy to fix. Replacement melamine panels will run you about $16 from Bunnings and some of your time. In my case, Aqua One were kind enough to replace the cabinet under warranty.





Modifications:

• Feet have been changed, raised from 4.2mm to 9.5mm
• DIY Sump fan installed to reduce humidity inside the cabinet
• Spray guard over the return

Will keep an eye on things when it's running again, as I'll have a fair bit more water running through the display.

[Nickalls]

Build Update

Hi All,

Posting the most recent pics of the build, which is complete - test pending

After having flow issues with my planted tank causing endless algae issues, I've decided to install a flow meter. Due to limited space I've installed it just off the return pump so I can see the LCD display on the meter. Ideally it would have been on the outlet going to the display, but would have been much harder to see. This way, it will measure total flow, up to 120 lpm, and a cheap peace of mind at $35. The plumbing is all 1" /25mm, and quite simple with a x2 port manifold. I really wanted this to be bigger (more manifold outlets), but the Viparspectra grow light over the fuge is a total space hog. The manifold is a Holman irrigation fitting, with a couple of 25mm gates.






Other updates

• Display is connected to the new plumbing with braided 19mm hose to reduce the chance of kinking
• Chiller is plumbed in prep for summer (still 20 deg ambient right now)
• Sump fans installed
• 3rd Grid Connect power board added to control return pump, wavemaker and sump fans
• Skimmer stand added
• Splash guard added to cover the powerboards (sandwiched under the tank between the stand and glass)
• Splash guard added to cover the UPS backup (with plastic risers under it to lift it off the ground, hopefully preventing rust)

First water should be in mid week!

[parrdog]

Thanks heaps for sharing mate, your build looks nothing short of spectacular!

Bloody well done mate, it's lookin' amazing!!

[Nickalls]

Thanks mate, I really appreciate your comments. Something kinda cathartic about writing a journal I reckon.

[Nickalls]

Hi All,

Last mod before water day! To help reach the goal of having a ULM tank, the bare bottom plastic has just gone in.

I've gone for textured ABS from Plastic Engineering Brendale who hooked me up with a sheet measuring 135 x 56 cm for $50. Not sure what the pattern is called, but it's much finer than a haircell texture, with less gloss. The sheet is about 4mm thick, and was really easy to cut with a jigsaw. There's a glass lip all the way around the top of the tank for a lid, and I was worried I wouldn't be able to get it inside the tank in one piece, but was able to bend it into an ark and slide it in just fine.





The sheet is fixed in place with aquarium grade silicone on the bottom, and sealed around the edges to prevent gunk getting wedged between the plastic and glass.

Did a run to 100% Reef Safe today, and prepaid 300l of natural sea water, and 60l of RO. Have also picked out a single piece of live rock about 70 x 35 x 35cm 7kg which looks amazing, delivered tomorrow at 11am, can't wait!!

[Macca_75]

Looking good with lots of thought, but if the tank is pushed back against the wall can you still pull the plug's out? I see you have the ability to power on/off through the power boards wirelessly, but what if you need to replace something, take it out for maintenance, etc?

I would also look to adding a piece of soft tube between the pump and pipework to reduce humming/vibrations.

Consider if you can put unions in the plumbing in case they are needed later. Also those ball valves are REALLY hard to tune and stick after a while. Have you considered a better quality double union ball valve (retails for around $50 I think).

Slotted duct will keep cables tidy.

Great first build - just some of the things I wish I knew when I started many years ago.

Also buy a RO/DI unit now - it will pay itself back in no time (and the added convenience of being able to make RO when you need it, not when you get to a shop).

[Nickalls]

Looking good with lots of thought, but if the tank is pushed back against the wall can you still pull the plug's out? I see you have the ability to power on/off through the power boards wirelessly, but what if you need to replace something, take it out for maintenance, etc?

I would also look to adding a piece of soft tube between the pump and pipework to reduce humming/vibrations.

Consider if you can put unions in the plumbing in case they are needed later. Also those ball valves are REALLY hard to tune and stick after a while. Have you considered a better quality double union ball valve (retails for around $50 I think).

Slotted duct will keep cables tidy.

Great first build - just some of the things I wish I knew when I started many years ago.

Also buy a RO/DI unit now - it will pay itself back in no time (and the added convenience of being able to make RO when you need it, not when you get to a shop).

Thanks Macca

Murphy's Law happened on water fill day which really tested me and validated the wisdom of your timely comments haha. Valves on the chiller didn't seat properly when I did them up, and had a mini flood. I also connected some gear incorrectly and needed to access the plugs and remove them, lucky for me I did leave enough room!

As for the better quality ball valves, I'll have a look and see where I can source some. RO/DI is also on my purchase list.