Hy Clor (Lanthanum Chloride)

[Brett240]

You will pull out the lanthanum flocculent with 100% changes, plus everything else. When you think you've done it enough, test the water for phosphate ( about a week after the last change ). if its good enough to zero, your good to go.

Catch here is, if you have lanthanum in the water, your phosphate result will be skewed since the lanthanum will be binding to it. When you do the phosphate reading you're going to be best off leaving the rock in just water for a week before testing.

That could be seen as misleading. Phosphate test kits test for SRP ( soluble reactive phosphate) also known as inorganic/free phosphate, that's phosphate not bound into a compound. Phosphate bound to lanthanum is of course technically in system, but we can't test for it, and we don't need to test for it as its now an inert compound.

You don't actually need to pull it out of system, its just considered good husbandry to pull out organics that no longer serve a purpose, hence why 100% water changes are good to pull out the flocculent, plus more importantly any free phosphate that has leached out.

[chrisg_75]

thanks guys. Sounds like I will try the Hy Chlor and do regular 100% water changes. Does this all have to be in salt water or will same thing occur in RO ?

[Damo]

Why bother changing water?

[rgh]

I have read some comments from people using Hy Clor brand of Lanthanum Chloride
I purchased a bottle, but am concerned with the colour. The liquid is blue, not clear as expected
Hy Clor's MSDS even states "Clear to grey liquid" http://www.hyclor.com.au/pdfs/Products/Manuals/MSDS%20Phosphate%20Remover.pdf
Any one have any information regarding this?

Just opened the bottle of Hy Clor Lanthanum I got recently from Bunnings and yep, it's bright blue, so they must of thought adding dye was a good idea

Will have a look for Pool Magic or another brand...

[chrisg_75]

I haven't checked my bottle. Im guessing that will stain the rocks so if mine is blue then I need to look at another brand too .........

[chromus]

This is the Masters Equiv I am diluting 20:1 with RO, no dye in it in the last bottle I bought.

https://www.masters.com.au/product/1000 ... over-1-25l

[Brett240]

Why bother changing water?

Passive diffusion, clean RO has a low buffering capacity, at it absorbs leachates from the rock its buffering capacity increases and it can absorb less.

[Damo]

Why bother changing water?

Passive diffusion, clean RO has a low buffering capacity, at it absorbs leachates from the rock its buffering capacity increases and it can absorb less.

I don't get it.
Are you saying that low TDS water will increase in Alkalinity due to release from the rock? I believe this is possible, but how does this help?
The goal is to remove PO4, if the water is lower in PO4 than the rock, it will equalise with time. If you have Lanthanum in the water, binding PO4 on contact, the water will remain deplete of PO4, continually leaching it from the rock till exhausted.
I don't see a benefit in changing out the water. Unless higher Alkaline water will leach PO4 from the rock more slowly? not sure if this is the case or not, is this what your suggesting?

[Brett240]

Sorry buffering capacity is probably not the right word ( but yes it will increase in alkalinity from leaching rock ). Low TDS water will drag P04 out of the rock faster than high TDS water. Like a clean V dirty sponge or new V old activated carbon. That's passive diffusion.

The point of changing the water ( besides removing bound P04/LA flocculent ) is to remove dissolved organic carbon leaching out of the rock, Po4 removal is not the only goal. The alternate to this is what Chromus said, using a skimmer.

[chrisg_75]

Hey guys,

How quickly does the lanth (hy clor) work and take out phos ? Is it work changing water more regularly than weekly ? Will it help getting phos from the rock quicker ?

Cheers